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Update 2/16/2024. It has been brought to our attention that a competitor has made a similar design set of sliders that were created to fool the customer into believing you are protected. DONT BE FOOLED! They cut corners on material thickness, design and quality to make a dollar. It really is that simple.
As discussed below, the lower section of your frame is the MAIN PART to be protected and the Tusk junk doesnt even cover these area's. They lead you to believe that you are protected and should also buy their 3/8" skidplate. 3/8" is to thin as we have showed you in videos and more. Just watch their own installation video where he is "bending the 3/8" material" with just his fingers. What a joke! This will not hold up to a 2000+ lbs machine.
Those products are not protecting your investment, just lining their pockets. Even in all their videos they never show a KRX or KRX4 actually even hit or use them because they are made of thin 12 ga steel which is actually .104 thick. And thats what they say on the site. Customers report they are NOT 12 ga and there is NO BRACING behind the main structure. They bend and you get stuck on them just like the OEM kawasaki ones. Avoid them. Jake
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In our opinion the KRX 1000 is the first true rock crawling utv on the market that was built strong enough to actually be called a Crawler! That is one of the main reasons we got so excited about its introduction. Unfortunetely though, the KRX 1000 has needed REAL rock sliders ever since 2019. We hoped the aftermarket would have created them by now, but all the flimsy tube offering's on the market DOESN'T CUT IT. This machine is more capable then other utv's and needs something better then whats offered. This is the KRX 1000 and its strong. So strong that we need something stronger than what has been offered before! Let us explain.
-Options: Whether it's cheap or expensive nerfs, or uhmw sides, nothing on the market has a smooth transition and will protect your undercarriage and keep your KRX chassis rigid. You start beating that chassis up and the whole thing turns into a noodle. The chassis will do all the flexing, and not the suspension as it was designed too.
There are 3 types of factory, and aftermarket "protection" options that are on the market. Some are known as "Nerf Bars". Yes, I said Nerf!
The cheap stock, and aftermarket nerf bars get damaged the first time you use them. Then they have to be replaced due to damage, or worse they bend up and you cant open or close your doors any longer. This happens all the time! Junk.
The more expensive aftermarket ones are just that. Expensive and they are usually known as "tree kickers". They're made of thicker tubing, and really meant to keep trees and rocks away from the sides. In our opinion, they stick out to far for crawling to be useful. They are more ridged then nerf bars, but do nothing to protect underneath, and are also not smooth with gaps in the tubing. Getting stuck on them in the rocks and trails is common.
The last offering is Delrin or UHMW skid plates that have bent up sides to "protect" the machine from rocks. These do nothing to protect your machine behind them, and just hide the abuse you are doing to your frame and sheet metal. Just watch our 7 things to do video for a demo of how easily 3/8" and 1/2" uhmw can be bent with just body weight on a table. ***LINK HERE*** UHMW is towards the end.
You dont even need to beat on your machine to damage the frame and thin metal underneath. Just a simple mistake does it!
The frame plates are made from tin and the tube frame is .083" wall tubing. Its thin. Either one will dent with a single swing from a hammer, let alone a 2000 lbs+ machine accidentally, or intentionally landing on something. The KRX is awesome, but with its new capabilities, comes limitations. Those can be corrected.
Your probably thinking to yourself, "I'm not going crawling or going to beat my machine". No you may not SET OUT looking for trouble (FUN to us!), but rest assured you never know where your going to be, and what your going to need to get through it. We have customers who have serious damage from "trouble" area's they found themselves in on the trail. Even totaled machines because the insurance companies will NOT FIX any frame damage. It really sucks, and happens everyday.
Final word:
We have been testing these KRX sliders and done some of the nastiest trails out west. Customers across the country have also been testing these for us, and everyone loves them!
Jake has mentioned in multiple video's, that rock sliders should be used as a TOOL to your advantage. Use them and TRUST a good set of sliders to help make obstacles easier. Trust them, pivot on them, smash them, and slide on them. Thats what they're for.
WE KNOW there is nothing on the market even close to our strength, features, and price!
Update 2/16/2024. It has been brought to our attention that a competitor has made a similar design set of sliders that were created to fool the customer. DONT BE FOOLED! They cut corners on material thickness, design and quality to make a dollar. It really is that simple.
As discussed, the lower section of your frame is the MAIN PART to be protected and the Tusk junk doesnt even cover these area's. They lead you to believe that you are protected and should also buy their 3/8" skidplate. 3/8" is to thin as we have showed you in videos and more. Just watch their own installation video where he is "bending the 3/8" material" with just his fingers. What a joke! This will not hold up to a 2000+ lbs machine. Those products are not protecting your investment, just lining their pockets. Even in all their videos they never show a KRX or KRX4 actually even hit or use them because they are made of thin 12 ga steel which is actually .104 thick. And thats what they say on the site. Customers report they are NOT 12 ga and there is NO BRACING behind the main bar. They bend and you get stuck on them just like the OEM kawasaki ones. Jake
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--Details & Features--
-These sliders were deigned by 3D scanning multiple KRX4 machines. The final design was finished in Solidworks 3D which eliminates any variances, and guarantees good quality protection that fits. So well in fact, that we have noticed multiple fitment issues between the KRX's scanned. These fitment issues were addressed in our final drawings of the rocks sliders to make fitment easier.
Reference Joke: Adding our sliders is like putting an expensive cheese on some balogna. LOL!
Our sliders are over designed and better made then the car you are bolting them too.
-Strength: Made from CNC formed 1/8" steel plate. They feature an internal back bone which puts support at the main impact area's. They are strong enough to not only take hits from rocks, but with the added 3" of protection underneath, they keep the factory frame and sheet metal from taking any more damage. They capture the entire side making the frame and chassis protected, stiffer, and stronger.
-Step Outs: Designed to stick out 3" from the body. This helps keep the rocks and obstacles away from panels, yet, not so far out you can't climb a rock with your rear tire. They also work great as a step!
-Boat Sides: Our design is known in the rock crawling community as boat sides. The design will let the KRX just slide through obstacles. Boat sides make maneuvering through the rocks so much easier, and predictable.
-Weight: The KRX rock sliders weigh in at 31 pounds. While this is more than we wanted to add, it is still lighter then other tree kicker options on the market and the weight is down low. We felt sacrificing a little weight for strength and performance was a plus.
-We only offer these in RAW steel. Why? Because they are "Rock Sliders".
They are intended to be dragged through obstacles and be repainted. If your like us, its nice to take a rattle can and touch them up when needed. You cant touch up powder coating, so we dont offer it. We always want them to look good, so we have never powder coated sliders. Paint recommendations are below.
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-We have 3 Options in the drop down menu above:
For pricing reasons we offer these with and without the plastic boat sides. They are not needed but truly make sliding through any obstacles so much easier. They also protect the steel sliders and are replaceable when or if needed.
-Option 1: Add Plastic Boat Sides:
Our boat sides are made from HDPE Marine board. They are CNC machined with counter sunk holes to keep your bolt heads below the skid surface. They also feature 40 degree routered edges to slide over obstacles and not get caught. MArine board is made from patroleum and is expensive!
Option 1 includes:
Driver and passenger boat sides.
Fasteners required for installation of the boat sides.
Jam nuts for your lower boat side fasteners.
1- pouch of liquid thread locker.
-Option 2: Add Grip Tape for Steps:
Because most customers will use the sliders for steps, we came up with a simple way to protect the paint and make sure you have good footing.
Option 2 Includes:
Enough skateboard tape for steps
Templates to cut out the step pads. Simple scissors will work.
-Shipping:
Local pick up, or Shipped via UPS or Fedex.
Shipping these is VERY expensive and is included in your purchase.
They are shipped raw with no boxes and may get scratched or bent. No boxes keeps shipping cost down for something that needs to be painted.
Rock sliders include:
Passenger and driver side rocks sliders. (2)
6- Flange bolts for slider to frame mounting.
4- Push pin Fasteers
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-Paint and installation:
Bolt on installation. Only drilling of your plastic rear wheel wells is required.
We recommend using a textured or wrinkle finish paint.
When scratched or gouged you can always flap disk or sand off the jagged metal and a textured paint will help conseal it. We have always had great luck with Rustoleum products and they can be found almost anywhere.
Rustoleum helps fight rust and doesnt show the spray can stripe effect as much.
We have also used Steel-it paint on our Blue Krawler KRX.
Here are a few Rustoleum part numbers to look up for use.
Dark pewter grey textured paint used on the trail edition and KRX4 shown. # 7221
Black textured paint. # 7220
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A KRX rock sliders Youtube video with installation:
Until then only read on if you need: Basic Instructions:
1. Test fit first rock sliders on both sides before painting or fitting the boat sides!
Two people can make installation SO MUCH EASIER! Its is doable with a floor jack to assist, but NOT easy.
2. If you have an aftermarket skid plate, remove the side bolts near where the rock sliders will mount. The sliders will tuck above your skid and below your frame. You may need to loosen even more bolts to get the sliders to go on easily.
3. Remove your factory side panels. If you have any damaged metal or tube underneath, it is advised to try and straighten that area now. Sometimes removing the floor panel helps.
3A. Video Helps. Remove the 1 phillips screw holding on the plastic cover next to the fuel filler neck. It is screwed into the side of the frame and is the only screw on the outside of the frame.
4. Test fit your supplied mounting bolts into the 3 holes on the side of the frame. Your verifying they are threading in and not filled with dirt or paint from the factory. If not, you will need to source a tap. 10mm x 1.25 pitch and tap the holes first.
5. Test fit the slider. 2 people can make installation SO MUCH EASIER! Have the bolts ready for installation. Slide the bottom in first between the frame and your skid plate and then start installing. Be sure the upper side of the slider, in the door jam area is not stuck on the factory plastics. If it is, simply pick up the slider to clear the plastic.
Verify you can easily see all three mounting holes and install the bolts. Once it looks like you have it positioned to install. You may need a rubber mallet to tap in the slider towards the frame to start the bolts. Using a 3" or longer extension on a short socket is easiest to start the bolts.
6. Tighten the bolts. Center first. Does it look good and straight? If so go to the next step.
7. Lay underneath and mark the rock slider where you may need to drill through, for your skid plate mounting bolts. You will NOT be able to use the self tapping bolts usually supplied with the skid plates. They will NOT go through 1/8" steel without breaking. Mark where the holes should be, and then remove the slider from the vehicle. You can use the same bolts, just not threaded into our sliders.
8. Drill out your skid plate bolt holes in the bottom of the rock slider. We recommend using a 1/4" to 5/16" drill bit which is larger then needed. The self tappers need to screw into the frame, and NOT our sliders.
9. Once completed, do the same to the other side.
10. Its is now time to paint the rock sliders and install the boat sides.
11. Once painted and dried. Set the boat side onto the slider and align the holes. Use the supplied 1/4" phillips bolts for installation. Install just 3 of them to center the panel on the slider. Only tighten them 2-3 turns each.
12. Set ALL the screws in using a "dab" of the provided thread locker. Once done use thread locker on the first 3 screws from direction 12. Do NOT tighten any bolts all the way until they are "ALL" lined up and started threading. Start tightening them in a sequence. Once the head starts to go into the plastic, start another until all heads are into the plastic. Once in, tighten them all down completely. Remember, you are working with thread lock, and need to do it quickly.
13. We have supplied some Jam nuts in your kit. You dont need to use these now, but for whatever reason you may have stripped bolts or holes later on in time. These jam nut can be used later for that. Save them.
14. Re- install the rock sliders for the last time.
15. Mark the 2 holes on the rear shark fin to the plastic wheel wells and drill them to 5/16". Install the supplied push pins. do the oposite side
16. Your done!
Thanks, Jake
